The Twig, the Big Wave Chaser and the Family Man
with Grant 'Twig' BakerWithout a lot of knowledge about Twiggy Baker, the Durbanite, I wanted to know where he came from and what makes him do what he does on some of the biggest waves in the world. Jaws. Maverick’s. Dungeons. These are names that many people have heard of – surfer or not – and know of them as the imposing walls of water few people are brave enough to surf on.
That’s when Jaws and Maverick’s are the next step. Check out the physics of one of the bigger wave spots: “The Mechanics of Maverick’s”
Next was a brief explanation on bathymetry (Diagram 2) and what makes a big wave.
“Bathymetry” definition:
– the measurement of depth of water in oceans, seas, or lakes.
“Equipment is everything, in any sport, if your equipment’s not dialed and not suited perfectly for your style and the way you play the game then you’re not going to be able to maximize your opportunities when they come.”
“You get into the lineup, it’s huge; you’ve got these massive peaks coming at you. And at that stage it all goes on feel. And it all goes on your history. The decisions that you make from that moment are automatic and programmed. It’s the years and years that you’ve put in; all the big wave sessions that have come before that; all the surfing sessions that have come before that. Because the first thing that you’ve got to do is read the ocean and be able to understand what the ocean is doing on that particular day, because every day is different.”
Listen to the interview to find out Grant’s best and worst wave experiences, what it feels like on a big wave, and being back in SA.
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Some watch from afar, some dive right in, and some reach out to the ocean’s extremes – riding massive cold waves on nothing more than fiberglassed styrofoam. And while I can understand that desire to get up on one of those waves and feel the wind, spray and speed that comes with skimming down the face, it takes steady progress and determination, and most importantly self-discipline.
And for some, like Twiggy, the rewards outweigh the risks.
Follow Grant ‘Twig’ Baker on Facebook and Instagram and check out Twig Surfboards.